Air Conditioner Repair Checklist
1. AC Won’t Turn On
There can be a couple of explanations why your air conditioner won’t start: an overloaded circuit breaker, inaccurate thermostat settings, a switched off switch or an overflowing condensate drain pan.
Triggered Circuit Breaker
Your system won’t run when you have a tripped breaker.
To determine if one has gotten overloaded, find your residence’s main electrical panel. You can find this metallic fixture on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.
- Ensure your hands and feet aren’t wet before you work on the panel or breakers.
- Locate the breaker labeled “AC” and make sure it’s in the “on” location. If it’s triggered, the lever will be in the middle of the panel or “off” position.
- Firmly transfer the breaker back to the “on” location. If it instantly triggers again, don’t touch it and get in touch with us at 602-832-7808. A breaker that keeps flipping may signal your home has an electrical issue.
Wrong Thermostat Settings
If your thermostat isn’t telling your system to run, it won’t switch on.
The most important part is checking it’s switched to “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your air conditioner may not turn on. Or you might have heated air blowing from vents because the furnace is on instead.
If you’re using a digital thermostat:
- Replace the batteries if the readout is blank. If the monitor is showing garbled letters, get a new thermostat.
- Check the proper option is showing. If you can’t update it, reverse it by decreasing the temperature and pushing the “hold” button. This will force your AC to work if programming is wrong.
- Attempt to set the thermostat 5 degrees lower than the space’s temperature. Your AC won’t work if the thermostat is identical to the space’s temperature.
Once your thermostat is calibrated properly, you should receive cold air promptly.
If you have a smart thermostat, like one manufactured by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, look at the manufacturer’s website for assistance. If it still won’t work, reach us at 602-832-7808 for help.
Your air conditioner typically has a shut-down device by its outside unit. This switch is commonly in a metal box attached to your residence. If your unit has recently been maintained, the lever may have inadvertently been placed in the “off” position.
Clogged Condensate Drain Pan
Condensate drain pans hold the additional water your equipment removes from the air. This pan is located either below or within your furnace or air handler.
When there’s a clog or backed up drain, water can accumulate and initiate a safety control to stop your air conditioner.
If your pan has a PVC pipe or drain, you can drain the surplus water with a special pan-cleaning tab. You can get these tabs at a home improvement or hardware retailer.
If your pan involves a pump, locate the float switch. If the switch is “up” and there’s water in the pan, you might have to get a new pump. Contact us at 602-832-7808 for support.
2. AC Blows Warm Air
If your AC is working but not providing cold air, its airflow could be blocked. Or it may not have enough refrigerant.
Your system’s airflow can be limited by a blocked air filter or dirty condenser.
How to Replace Your Air Filter
A dusty filter can cause a lot of problems, including:
- Reduced comfort
- Frosted refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
- Inconsistent cooling
- Larger cooling costs
- Leading your system to break down more quickly
We suggest replacing flat filters monthly, and pleated filters every three months.
If you aren’t sure when you last replaced yours, switch off your system totally and take out the filter. You can find the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It might also be found in an adjoining filter box or wall-mounted return air grille.
Angle the filter up to the sunshine. If you can’t see through it, you certainly should get a new one.
5 Tips on Cleaning Your Cooling System
Greenery, plants and sticks can obstruct your condensing unit. This can reduce its airflow, lower its energy efficiency and impact your comfort. Here’s how you can get your unit working well again.
- Turn off power fully at the breaker or outdoor lever.
- Get rid of plant waste around the equipment. Once you’ve cleared larger refuse within a two-foot range, you can use a fine-bristled brush or vacuum to gingerly remove dust from the equipment’s fins. Crooked fins can also affect capability, so you can attempt to correct them with a dinner knife.
- Take off the upper grate of your system and take out any leaves or grass clippings that has collected. Then wipe down the condenser fan with a wet scrap cloth.
- Use a hose nozzle to gingerly clean the fins from inside the system. Don’t get water on the fan motor.
- Put the top back on and restore the power.
Low Refrigerant Levels
When AC systems don’t have sufficient refrigerant, they’ll have to work much harder to remove heat and humidity from your space.
Here are a few indications that your unit is leaking refrigerant:
- It takes a long time to refresh your space and you’re continually lowering the thermostat.
- Air conditioning coming through the registers isn’t as cold as it should be.
- You’re hearing whistling or gurgling noises when cooling is on.
- Your evaporator coil is icy on account of having an issue absorbing humidity.
Suspect your unit is seeping refrigerant? You need a qualified heating and cooling service expert to take care of the leak and restore the correct amount of refrigerant in your system. Get in touch with us at 602-832-7808 for help.
3. AC Not Blowing Enough Air
When it appears like you’re not having ample amounts of chilled air, there’s potentially a blockage or disconnection within your cooling system.
- The first stage is checking your air filter. Replace it if it’s filthy.
- Then check the registers are free throughout your home.
- If you’re still not getting ample chilly air, you should have your duct system checked by a professional like Dial One Mears Air Conditioning & Heating Inc. Your duct system may need to be serviced or relinked in limited space areas like your attic, basement or crawl space.